What dou you guys think of this boat?

[borisboga]

Hey guys.

What do you think about this boat?

I'll be fishing around Broken Bay, Harbour, And If the weather is good maybe out of the heads.

Their reserved price is 3000.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220148761466&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=012

And a video of it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLVgKtuimpU

I am thinking of offering them $2500

Thanks

Boris

[quintrex101]

not a bad boat, should be ok for what you are doing,

whats your limit for spenting on a boat ????????????/

[borisboga]

not a bad boat, should be ok for what you are doing,

whats your limit for spenting on a boat ????????????/

That depends on the boat, max around $5000

Boris

[quintrex101]

ok.......................that should get you a good boat for that price,:hellyeah:

maybe a center console be good for you ?????????

[borisboga]

ok.......................that should get you a good boat for that price,:hellyeah:

maybe a center console be good for you ?????????

I prefer a runabout or maybe a half cabin because of the weather protection they offer.

[storms72]

Baris...Be careful of engine troubles as listed....The current owner may not know the full extent problems or if the simple fixes he has mentioned and hydraulic trim and tilt systems aren't cheap to fix or replace.....Do some homework first mate...it may end up costing you if you dont!

Jason

[borisboga]

Baris...Be careful of engine troubles as listed....The current owner may not know the full extent problems or if the simple fixes he has mentioned and hydraulic trim and tilt systems aren't cheap to fix or replace.....Do some homework first mate...it may end up costing you if you dont!

Jason

Hey Jason,

Mate only a mechanic would tell me what the actual problem is. But before I talk to a mechanic I wanted to know if tha hull is any good for me.

If the hull is good than I'd talk to a mechanic (or someone who knows this stuff) and maybe take him with me to see the boat.

What do you think about the hull and the whole package assuming the trouble with the engine is not a big deal.

Thanks Jason

[storms72]

It looks ok....do you know the brand and model????

Haji whats your thoughts on this one?

[borisboga]

It looks ok....do you know the brand and model????

Haji whats your thoughts on this one?

4.6 meter Runabout 89 model Stebacraft Hull.

[mr antenna]

Depends on your fishing,and i wouldn,t pay any more then$1500 for the boat.
Not my type of boat any way.
Cannot see it going out the heads in a 1 metre swell.

[HSV]

Boris read this buddy its intrestingBuying a Boat


Many people do not get the boat they want until about the third one they buy. The first boat usually is an all rounder and may quickly become a disappointment. The reason is that many people become single minded about the things they do in boats and an all rounder may not do those things well enough.
Starting out

One of the best starting points is to give yourself an apprenticeship - spend a lot of time in other people's boats and take your partner with you.

This will let you:
Eliminate all the different prejudices that people have about boats and the equipment used.
Notice how different boats perform with changing weather, in varying conditions and with different loads.
Find out the activities you and your partner prefer and you'll refine your search for the ideal boat for the job.
Learn to gauge properties of a boat - for instance the balance between comfort at speed and stability at rest.
Understand your partner's boating wants may be different to yours, so look for a version of the all rounder.With the type of boat in mind, your next major purchases include the motor and trailer. Beware of putting too low powered a motor on the boat.

Low power means the performance and economy will drop dramatically with increased loads; power trim, which helps you set the boat up for different conditions will not work well; you will lose flexibility - no casual skiing; and unexpected loads, like towing another boat could damage the motor.

Boating Industry Association dealers will advise you on a range of power to suit your boat and the job that you want it to do.

Buying Secondhand

As with used cars, when you are buying privately you have less legal safeguards than when buying from a dealer. This means you need to take extra care, especially when assessing the condition of the motor. Unless you are a trained mechanic, it would pay you to employ an expert to do an assessment.

When buying, dealers value the boat, motor and trailer separately, and this is a good system for the secondhand buyer to use. Even if the motor on offer is a write off, the boat may be a good enough deal to justify buying a new or good secondhand motor for it. Many dealers have rebuilt motors in stock, or near new motors traded in by commercial users.

http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/imarine/recboating/images/mar_rb_basics-alumni.jpgAluminium
Look for cracks where rails weld to decks; where the sides meet the keel; and with an inboard engine, at the engine mounts. Look for corrosion, though superficial powdering is not a problem, lots of white powder or deep pitting calls for an expert opinion. http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/imarine/gfx/pixel.gif
http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/imarine/recboating/images/mar_rb_basics-fibreglass.jpgFibreglass
A part from cosmetic wear and tear, look for signs of cracking from impact and structural failure. Near where flat surfaces meet stiffening - at chines, planing strakes and bulkheads. Look close to distinguish superficial cracks from deep ones. Hulls with repairs can be acceptable as the quality of repairs is the significant factor. http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/imarine/gfx/pixel.gif
When Buying a Boat

Consider what the boat is to be used for - protected or offshore waters.
Consult a BIA (Boating Industry Association) member for advice. The BIA has a Code of Ethics which has been designed to protect you.
Acknowledge your level of boating skills and whether they are sufficient for the boat you plan to purchase.
Determine how many people will be carried for the size of boat safely.
Consider where the boat will be kept - anchorage, trailer, at home or in a marina.
Assess running costs, maintenance, storage, equipment and safety gear.
Determine your overall budget.

[borisboga]

thanks for that mick

[HSV]

No problems mate

Mate read as much as you can i did and now im starting to understand a bit more about boats, i know how you feel its so confusing..


When considering the purchase of a new boat, seaworthiness is a very important factor. But it is not always something you can see or feel.
Seaworthiness consists of a whole series of factors rolled into one almost indefinable package. Two different boats can be sitting side by side on a showroom floor looking for all the world like two identical boats, but in reality one could be a first class offshore fishing boat, and the other suitable for only river and inland waterways.
Seaworthiness is not one thing, Seaworthiness involves the shape of the bow, the bottom of the hull up forward and down aft near the transom, the shape of the 'shoulders' behind the bow and a whole host of other factors which range from the inner strength of the hull (often referred as the 'structural integrity'), and the shape, size and style of outboard well on the transom.
The shape and structure of the forward areas of the boat's hull are extremely important.
Water-ski boats are easily recognised because they have a super sleek, needle nosed appearance and very little freeboard ? which means the sides of the boat are not very high. Water-ski people are primarily concerned with having a hull which will accept the most horsepower for the least possible expense in terms of money and weight, so there is no need for them to bother about freeboard as most of their water-skiing will be done in very calm conditions.
It is important to recognise this difference right from the start.
A 5.0 m boat with a flat bottom is going to be a lot faster with a 100 hp outboard than a 5.0 m boat with an obviously deep vee transom. Even the layman can quickly recognise the difference. The flat bottom boat will tend to skim over the top of the water whereas the deep vee hull will tend to ride through the water. Most of the factors concerning seaworthiness stem from this essential difference.
The flat bottom boat will slam and ride very hard in choppy waters as the broad, flat sections of the hull slap down on the water. The deep vee on the other hand, will ride much more softly, as its vee shaped sections will tend to slice through the water like the proverbial 'hot knife through butter'.
Without freeboard, the high speed ski boat generally offers little protection for its crew, whereas the deep vee runabout's much higher sides offer not just protection, but extra comfort as far as flying spray and choppy water is concerned.

http://www.marinews.com/contentImages/060427072507_ba-seaw-0592001.jpg

Continuing in the same vein, it follows that the flat bottom Water-ski boat with a waterline beam of 2.1 m will be more stable than its deep vee counterpart, a principle which will play a very important role in the final selection of your boat (see sketch).
Although the preceding remarks have been simplistic they are nevertheless important for the newcomer if he is going to understand the factors which contribute to the seaworthiness of his new boat. It can be seen that the boat owner is really looking for a compromise. He wants a deep vee hull which will ride softly through choppy water, and he wants a flat bottom hull for stability and economy (because flat bottom hulls are a lot easier to push over the water). He wants comfortably high topsides for security and safety, but low topsides to avoid excessive weight and windage (the effects of the wind on a fishing boat is an important factor to consider). As the perfect boat has not yet been designed the purchaser has to exercise a great deal of care in choosing his boat. With the foregoing principle in mind let us examine some of the individual points, and the most desirable features.
Flare
Flare is basically the amount of overhang in the forward sections of the hull. It is there to keep down or suppress spray coming up from the bow. Highly overrated as far as seaworthiness is concerned. Too much flare can be more dangerous than too little. Too much and the boat tends to dig into the waves, particularly in a following sea situation; too little and the boat will lift out of the waves well ? but will sometimes throw a great deal more water back over the bow.
The Shoulders
The shoulders of the boat are one of the most important features. If they are too fine there is a tendency for the bow (again) to dig too deeply in a following sea. Alternatively, if they are too broad and too far forward the boat will tend to slam.
Hull Bottom
There are two different areas of the bottom which effect your boating. Up forward where the boat meets the water, the hull should be shaped in a nicely curved vee. But as you cast your eye along the bottom of the hull this very deep vee up forward should twist and flatten out as your eye moves down towards the stern. At the stern, most manufacturers use a shallow or moderate vee of between 15-18 degrees, or a 18-22 degree deep vee. Which is the best depends very much on the individual boat, i.e. there are some boats that would be more suited to a 15 degree vee than the 20 degree they have, and vice-versa.
As a rule of thumb guide, if two boats have an identical waterline beam, and one is 17 degrees and the other 20 degrees, the latter boat will have a sightly softer ride in extreme conditions, but the more moderate 17 degree hull will be slightly more stable and require slightly less horsepower.
Of course, we are assuming here that dozens of other factors in our comparison were constant, such as the weight of the two boats, the type of construction and the load, etc.
Instead of a fixed shallow or deep vee hull, some of the better manufacturers (Signature, Savage) also use what is referred to as a 'variable deadrise' hull. This hull shape has the best of both worlds, i.e, good stability at rest, and a soft ride underway.
Freeboard
High topsides have long been accepted as the hallmark of a good sea going boat. I have no argument with this point, as long as it is not taken out of perspective. Freeboard should not necessarily be related to seaworthiness, as the factors which keep waves out of the boat extend beyond how high the sides of the boat rise out of the water.
Transom Shape
The higher, and more 'filled in' the transom, the safer the boat ? it is as simple as that. The buyer has a reasonable amount of choice in this area, because manufacturers tend to use one of four basic systems.
The first is the full width well, with a high secondary transom behind the outboard.
The second system is to have virtually a full transom, but with room for one outboard motor cut out.
The third system is the full width, full height transom of the stern drive.
And, finally, the fourth common transom design is the full height transom with an outboard pod or bracket bolted to the rear transom wall. There's also a popular variation of this arrangement called a half pod ? used by Sportfish, Quintrex etc.
With few exceptions, my earlier remark stands; the more filled in and higher the transom, the more sea-worthy the hull. Always check very carefully to ensure the secondary transom provided in the outboard well is as high as if a normal full height transom had been provided. A surprisingly large number of manufacturers tend to reduce the height of this secondary transom on the outboard well, which can lead to quite serious problems in choppy conditions.
From these remarks we can conclude that a seaworthy boat is really one which has most of its features in a "not too little, not too big", relationship. It is, as I commented in the beginning, a compromise from the bow through to the transom. And it is this compromise and the degree of success each manufacturer achieves that causes such vast differences between competitive products.

[storms72]

Top stuff there Mick....Where did you get all that great info for the boat buyer???? Wherever you got it the supplier of knowledge deserves a huge thanks!

Jason

[HSV]

hey jason i got this info from a website, but i must really thank haji he got me up to speed. Thanks Haji:hellyeah:

[borisboga]

thanks mick.

Top info mate...

[Haji]

No worries Mick, thanks for the acknowledgement.

Now to put all that new found knowledge to good use in getting your boat.

:ohhh yeah:

[Ganet]

You might be interested that his only negative feedback was in Nov 06 and was regarding a boat Motor he paid $300 for and he had to pull it apart. You might want to contact the old seller and see what the story was - might be a different boat. Might be worth phoneing him and finding out the story if that is the motor on the boat as Dapto is a ways to travel with a mechanic. A self install etc may explain why all the guages and so on don't work.

If you have a mechanic look at it make sure he does it at a ramp so after doing compression test and general look over the motor he can do an on water test. Tilt trims are expensive to mess with and so are any parts on old motors. For that motor find out exact model and phone Moby marine In mortdale and ask if they have one being wrecked and also if they were a good motor.

Ask if a local mechanic has done any work on it and speak to that mechanic before wasting your time travelling.

With regards to the boat transom and floor are the greatest worries with old fibreglass boats. If either are soft it is expensive and a great hassle. If the bearers are soft under the floor it is a major rebuild and expensive.

Most things that age have problems unless they have been kept stored undercover their whole life and kept dry.

In that size of boat the glass are heavier so need bigger more expensive motors so you end up looking at older craft and older motors etc etc. I know a ally might not offer as much protection but you have a low maintainance boat that is easier to inspect and best of all you will end up being able to power it with a smaller motor as it is lightweight.

You won't know until you see it but don't ever rush to buy a boat unless you know it inside out.

Good luck

ganet

Just watched the utube video- I've never seen a old johno 2 stroke that didn't blow smoke when idle to full- or is it just the vid quality.

[borisboga]

Just watched the utube video- I've never seen a old johno 2 stroke that didn't blow smoke when idle to full- or is it just the vid quality.

Thanks for the Info Ganet...

I think I'll give it a miss on that boat and keep on looking.

[storms72]

Ganet, a mates boat with a 76 model evinrude (OMC same as Johnson) starts first turn and blows barely any smoke once warmed up......

Outboard wrecking also at Blacktown family boats which is now under new management...also Arizona at Charmahven on the central coast.

Good luck mate.